Tangier, Morocco
After many years of other North African cities holding the spotlight, I do believe that Tangier is finally having the moment it deserves. With its proximity to Spain (the ferry takes less than an hour), its heavily trafficked international port, and a mix of French, Berber, Moroccan Arabic, English and Spanish spoken throughout, this city has soul. Tangier has consistently drawn creatives and bohemians as part of its rich history. It is culturally more open than most parts of Morocco, making it more comfortable for women and less of a dry town (many beautiful spots for a cocktail). There are not many must dos in Tangier except to enjoy your hotel, eat all the Moroccan food, walk the streets, shop your heart out and take in the essence of the city.
STAY: Two hotels, very different from each other, that I love. The locations are night and day so decide what part of the city you want to be in. The properties are also vastly different. Nord Pinus is a converted 18th Century palace with only six rooms and impeccable style. It sits in the casbah so the neighborhood is quiet and charming (though you do always find yourself climbing up the hill multiple times per day) and some of my favorite little neighborhood spots are in the surrounding area. The owner is French and many of the staff are too and her French bohème permeates the place. The rooftop is the magic of Nord Pinus and that’s where you should spend your down time. I highly encourage you to reserve the Ocean View Suite. Spring for the suite, it really makes the stay. The room has the best view, its own terrace and is across the way from the rooftop, so the room flows into the rooftop amenity spaces. They serve all three meals at Nord Pinus, we always had breakfast there plus drinks and snacks but never other meals. We stayed one night in a different room that was just fine though I did not like it nearly as much at Ocean View.
Mimi Calpe is the other Tangier hotel that I love. There is no property more special in this city than Mimi Calpe. It was a private family home for generations until the hotel opened and is located in old Tangier, near the beach and port. It sits on a busy street but once behind the walls, you won’t notice that much. One space is more calming than the next, they have a sweet pool and plenty of gardens and lounge spaces. Breakfast is superb. So is the design.
Villa Mabrouka is the last hotel worth mentioning, beautiful, historic property and the most upscale of all. I love going there for drinks and snacks on their terrace. It’s the only thing close to a scene in Tangier and people love staying there.
EAT: Sit atop Le Salon Bleu for a nice tagine or appetizer, overlooking the square, under an umbrella. Their portions are relatively small and the food is so tasty - an easy go-to spot especially if you are staying in the kasbah.
I think Chez Hassan is consistently my favorite restaurant in Tangier - and I am not alone in that opinion. Plan to wait for a table, and the waiting room is the sidewalk across the street. Be prepared and open to sharing a table with strangers. Both times we have eaten there we shared a table with others whose company we thoroughly enjoyed. There’s not many tables and everyone makes it work. They pump out so much food - kebabs, tagines, and more from tiny grills and ovens, it’s impressive. I love their shrimp tagine and kabobs but you cannot go wrong. Cash only so remember that. Also get a juice, they are all delicious. And if it’s Friday, as I have learned, get the couscous, on Friday in Tangier everyone eats couscous.
M Restaurant is at the end of an alleyway in the courtyard of a riad and is a lovely little spot with fresh fish and nice Italian options, they have a rooftop too. It has a quiet elegance to it and the courtyard is romantic. Down the same alley is Tsood, a little coffee shop where we always seem to end up. It’s nothing fancy but they make a nice coffee and have good pastries to accompany the coffee. I had a cookie there once that I dream about, it was a good bite that just stuck with me.
In and around the Casbah there are incredible watering holes. To start your evening, I would go for a cocktail on the patio at Villa Mabrouka.
El Morocco Club is an iconic basement lounge where you can get lost in the sauce and it’s great for an after dinner drink. Very fun vibe, great design, often there is a piano player, and I have never leave disappointed. There is also a restaurant upstairs that is well loved, though I have always been part of the downstairs lounge crowd. Back in the winding pedestrian alleys of the kasbah is a nice cocktail at the Dar Nour guest house. On warmer nights, they have a rooftop but also, when we were there on a winter trip, we found the cozy lobby lounge to be the perfect spot to settle in for a quiet evening. The entrance is a bit hard to find so look for a door with a tiny gold plaque that says Dar Nour.
SHOP: The SHOP is good in Tangier. Las Chicas is a multi-floor boutique and gallery just outside the casbah. Great concept store with a mix of clothes, art, accessories, and a little more. Just around the corner from Las Chicas on Rue de la Kasbah is a little boutique where I always find myself a nice thing or two called Olas. Across from Olas and next to the laundry is this dude who sells handmade baskets. I have never seen a name and he is a piece of work but I always find great items there. It looks like this:
Boutique Majid sits in the main market area and is a treasure trove of the most exquisite antique collection imaginable. The space is massive and it’s worth taking your time to take it all in. All sorts of textiles, furniture, old beautiful things. Truly priceless items that cost a pretty penny but will be a collectors item forever. The owner and his wife are such lovely people and their conversation and stories alone are worth stopping by.
I buy quite a bit for our shop from Bazar Tindouf. Their pottery, blankets, and all the old good things are my favorite. It’s packed to the brim and musty in there, lots of nooks to explore including a basement and attic, but after a time or two, I now stick to the main floor. You can negotiate a bit but not too heavily. The prices are reasonable so not all that much of a need anyway.
Madini is this crazy good perfume shop tucked into a big bustling street in the old part of the city. While I am not usually one to seek out a perfume shop, this place is a wow and their scents are my favorite gift to bring back. I buy an assortment of scents and give them as gifts throughout the year - a large bottle is inexpensive and a true find. Not too far from Madini, down a quaint walk street in Les Insolites book shop. They have a great assortment and a nice section of books on Tangier if you want a souvenir.
DO: A day trip to the nearby coastal town of Asilah. I love this little town so much, it is pure relaxation so you could easily also stay overnight. For me, the anchor of my trips to Asilah is Bazaar Omar where I buy Moroccan rugs. I can’t think of a better place to buy rugs while in Morocco. Omar is the best, his rugs are tippy top and his prices fair. It’s a treat to spend time with him in his shop - from store level to rooftop. He ships the rugs seamlessly home for you and they always arrive within a couple of weeks.
While in Asilah, it’s Dar Al Maghrebia for an amazing meal, Coffee Bike Cappuccino for coffee (or this little nook where I seem to always end up called Lesstress). Enjoy the labyrinth of shops in the Medina (it’s one of my favorite places to shop in Morocco) and the coastal walk is a must.